The wave-current interaction in the coastal area

In our investigation of the effect of wind-waves on barotropic mean flow in coastal areas, we compare two methods for calculating wave-induced force. The wave field is simulated by the nearshore spectral wave model SWAN. The wave-induced force (calculated using the radiation stress gradient and dissipation methods) and the Stokes drift are integrated in the COHERENS circulation model in the depth-averaged mode. The coupled set is validated using well-known academic test cases of planar beach and single-barred beach. Finally, in a two-dimensional test case based on Belgian coastal waters we compare simulations of mean flow using the two methods of calculating waveinduced force against field data. We show clearly that the two methods for calculation of wave-induced force yield very different results even in depth-averaged mode, depending on the angle of incident wave. Simulation of waveinduced circulation using the wave dissipation approach gives better results than using the radiation stress gradient approach. This is clearly visible for strong wave conditions in which the wind is blowing almost parallel to the shore. Under these conditions, the white-capping type of wave breaking is the dominant dissipation mechanism; in the radiation stress gradient, the dissipation signal is not visible, because the energy loss in the spectrum is compensated by wind input

A first assessment of the interdependency of mesh motion and free surface models in openfoam regarding wave-structure interaction

Mesh motion is of key importance in assuring adequate CFD modelling of wave- structure interaction problems, such as wave impact on floating offshore wind turbines and seakeeping of ships. Wave forcing often leads to large displacements of floating structures. As a consequence, the fluid domain boundaries need to move in order to accommodate for these wave-induced displacements. The mesh quality needs to be preserved at all times to guarantee accurate and stable results for the rigid body displacements as well as for the fluid variables. Mesh deformation techniques, in particular algebraic mesh motion methods, have been widely used within the OpenFOAM framework during the last decade. Unfortunately, stability is easily jeopardized in case of large displacements. Large mesh deformation gives rise to computation- ally demanding and unstable results. Sliding meshes have been used to address this issue, but they are cumbersome for multi-degree of freedom motion. Therefore, overset methods have been implemented in recent versions of OpenFOAM. Especially, the newly implemented overset meth- ods in the OpenFOAM branch foam-extend, have shown to give good results for an acceptable runtime. Simultaneously, considerable progress has been made on the development of alternatives for alge- braic volume-of-fluid methods for free surface modelling, which notoriously suffer from smearing effects. Although it seems reasonable to expect that the choice in free surface model combined with a certain mesh motion technique will have an influence on the overal result, the interde- pendency between mesh motion techniques and free surface modelling has not been studied yet. This paper aims at taking the first steps towards a better understanding of this mesh motion-free surface interdependency and, as such, facilitate an informed choice

Two-dimensional computations of Stokes drift and undertow at the near coast region

Hydrodynamic

Indications of dynamic effects on scaling relationships between channel sinuosity and vegetation patch size across a salt marsh platform

Salt marshes are important coastal areas that consist of a vegetated intertidal marsh platform and a drainage network of tidal channels. How salt marshes and their drainage networks develop is not fully understood, but it has been shown that the biogeomorphic interactions and feedbacks between vegetation development and channel formation play an important role. We examined the relationships among tidal channel sinuosity, marsh roughness, vegetation type (pioneer, Elymus athericus or Phragmites australis), and patch size at different spatial scales using a high-resolution vegetation map (derived from aerial photography) and lower-resolution satellite imagery processed with linear spectral mixture analysis. The patch-size distribution in all vegetation types corresponded to a power law, suggesting the presence of self-organizational processes. While small vegetation patches are more dominant in pioneer vegetation, they were present in all vegetation types. The largest patch size is restricted to E. athericus. We observed an inverse logarithmic relationship between channel sinuosity and vegetation patch size in all vegetation types. The fact that this relationship is observed in both pioneer and later successional stages suggests that after the establishment of a drainage network in the dynamic pioneer stages of salt marsh development, the later stages of salt marsh succession largely inherit the meandering pattern of the early successional stages. Our study confirms recent evidence that no significant changes in the specific features of tidal channel networks (e.g., channel width, drainage density, and efficiency) take place during the later stages of salt marsh development

Incorporation of continental and urban run-off into a coastal circulation model: application to the Catalan coast

A 3D hydrodynamical model has been set up to incorporate the continental and urban run-off into the Catalan Coastal waters. Particular attention was paid to introducing correctly the freshwater plumes and attention was also paid to determinate the influence of the land discharge profile with regard to the distributed continental run-off. The model domain includes a small part of the Catalan Coast where the combination of local land topography with torrential rainfall caused considerable local runoff on a short period of time with a large impact on the receiving coastal waters. The Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) simulations were used to examine the dispersal to a freshwater delivery from two relevant event; a low river discharge typical of mean conditions during April 2011 and a high discharge representative of the storm event during March 2011 are considered. We have observed the plume responses to an abrupt change in river discharge. During the mean conditions, low salinity water is concentrated around the rivers mouth while during the flood event, the plume spread offshore in the direction of river water outflow and turned downstream close to the coast. The differences between a simulation including the river outflow as a land forcing and a simulation including river and urban runoff as a land forcing suggested that the urban runoff plays an important role in the spreading and shape of the river plume.Postprint (published version

Coastal turbidity derived from PROBA-V global vegetation satellite

PROBA-V (Project for On-Board Autonomy-Vegetation) is a global vegetation monitoring satellite. The spectral quality of the data and the coverage of PROBA-V over coastal waters provide opportunities to expand its use to other applications. This study tests PROBA-V data for the retrieval of turbidity in the North Sea region. In the first step, clouds were masked and an atmospheric correction, using an adapted version of iCOR, was performed. The resulted water leaving radiance reflectance was validated against AERONET-OC stations, yielding a coefficient of determination of 0.884 in the RED band. Next, turbidity values were retrieved using the RED band. The PROBA-V retrieved turbidity data was compared with turbidity data from CEFAS Smartbuoys and ad-hoc measurement campaigns. This resulted in a coefficient of determination of 0.69. Finally, a time series of 1.5 year of PROBA-V derived turbidity data was plotted over MODIS data to check consistencies in both datasets. Seasonal dynamics were noted with high turbidity in autumn and winter and low values in spring and summer. For low values, PROBA-V and MODIS yielded similar results, but while MODIS seems to saturate around 50 FNU, PROBA-V can reach values up till almost 80 FNU